From a single grain of wheat

Shigesato Itoi ☓ Akira Minagawa

minä perhonen is a meticulously-designed clothing brand beloved by many people for its use of original textiles. This special panel by Shigesato Itoi and designer Akira Minagawa was held during minä perhonen's special gallery event to celebrate the brand's 20th anniversary. They discuss the origins of the Hobonichi Techo, the important points of creating clothing, and other topics that popped up during their casual conversation.

About minä perhonen

Fashion brand created by designer Akira Minagawa.

First founded in 1995 under the name minä. Opened the first shop in Shirokanedai, Tokyo in 2000, and renamed the brand name to “minä perhonen” in 2003. Opened a total of 9 shops across Japan, with a new location in Daikanyama in April 2016, a new shop in the Spiral building in Aoyama, Tokyo in July 2016, and a location coming to Kanazawa.

minä perhonen homepage

Part3

A coat, a book, and a solo journey

Itoi
I see your inspiration for entering the fashion world sitting over there on display. [Points off-stage]
Minagawa
Ah, yes, the coat.
Itoi
[To the audience] Did everyone see the coat that Minagawa didn’t make?

Minagawa
[Laughs] When I was 19, I went on a trip to a town called Rovaniemi, near the Arctic Circle, and found this coat. I wasn’t a fashion designer at the time, but when I was helping out with a Paris show for a certain fashion brand I wore this coat.
Itoi
I see you’ve treasured it all this time.
Minagawa
Even though I was studying in Paris, the front lines of the fashion world, I felt drawn to clothes like that coat. I felt like I had seen fashion in this article of clothing I’d found outside of the known fashion world, and it made me realize there were many more ways to go about it.
Itoi
So the coat was the catalyst that made you think, as a designer, “This is what I want to express.” It’s like the coat was a piece of stationery, and you accepted the message and feelings written upon it.

Minagawa
That’s right. There was another catalyst, as well. It was the dead of winter when I was up near the Arctic Circle in Lapland. It was so cold that I spent a lot of time in the library.
Itoi
Because it was cold. [Laughs]
Minagawa
I found a single book translated into Japanese. It was an art book. The artist had written the words, “Anyone can become an artist. But not everyone can create art.”

Itoi
Ooh.
Minagawa
I thought back on that after I went to Paris. It’s true that anyone can call themselves a fashion designer or a creator.
Itoi
All you’ve got to do is print it on your business cards.
Minagawa
I don’t know if I can be the real thing, but I got my start from the coat I found in the Arctic Circle, and the Japanese book I found in the Lapland library. I have the same feelings now that I did back then.
Itoi
Did you mind traveling alone when you were 19?
Minagawa
I liked it better that way. I felt at ease having perfectly silent conversations with myself. Although that might sound a bit dark. [Laughs]
Itoi
[Laughs]

Minagawa
I didn’t understand the language, so when I went into a shop, I would watch the daily lives of the locals and ruminate on my own thoughts. That was the best part of my trip.
Itoi
Those times seem like the root of who you are.
Minagawa
That might a surprisingly large part of what design is. Rather than just drawing a picture, it’s what you’re thinking on in your head.
Itoi
Yeah. A lot disappears when you vocalize something.
Minagawa
That’s true.
Itoi
There are things that you have thought a number of times but have not reached to the answer for. Things that you try to talk about with your friends, but you still feel you are not close to the answer and keep thinking over and over.

Minagawa
Right. When I’m traveling, I like to sit and space out in ordinary places like coffee shops and libraries. At night I’ll even go to bars and sit among the rowdy crowds of locals.
Itoi
You’re seeing a genuine slice of local life.
Minagawa
I’m not really interested in famous tourist spots. I’d rather watch an old man spend the whole day fishing and imagine what he was thinking when he sat down next to the “NO FISHING” sign.

会場(笑)
[Audience laughs]

Itoi
There are certain people you can imagine spending quiet time alone, and certain other people you can’t, even if it’s late at night, or they’re riding a train. I feel like I can trust people who I can imagine spending time alone, because they can probably do their best without anyone else’s help. That’s exactly how I see you.
Minagawa
I have fun with other people, but there’s a sense of relief when I’m by myself. Like I’m at my own home base.
Itoi
Your home territory.
Minagawa
Exactly. I’ve always liked that feeling.
Itoi
What’s present in your home territory comes out into the world in the form of your work. It never really runs dry. Do a lot of your ideas come from your own personal territory?
Minagawa
Yes, they do. I’m sure it’s the same for you, where the more things you create, the more your creations complement one another.
Itoi
Yes, exactly.
Minagawa
People ask me if I ever run out of ideas, or if I ever have trouble coming up with a new pattern. But that’s not the case.

Itoi
But I think all creators have a certain wall to face. Their work becomes routine, and as they repeat what they’re good at, they’re going to fail at least once.
Minagawa
Yeah.
Itoi
But you still use all the textiles you’ve made in the past, don’t you?
Minagawa
I do.
Itoi
I think that’s rare. The only other case I can think of is when musicians perform the same song in different ways.
Minagawa
I can see that, now that you mention it. It’s important for an illustrator to be recognizable through his work. But I want to keep changing as I go. I want to try different art styles, different modes of expression, different ways of imagining.
Itoi
Yeah.
Minagawa
For illustrators or graphic designers, there is enjoyment in bringing out their own characteristics, but for fashion designers, there’s some different sort of enjoyment.

Itoi
I see.
Minagawa
When I make a new textile, I might aim, for example, to use the same techniques from my previous work while going in the opposite direction with my imagination. Fashion collections come out twice a year, with the changing seasons, and that pace establishes a really good rhythm.

2016-12-06-Tue

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